A Terroir-ist’s Manifesto for Eating in Place July 24, 2016 Jessica Bernardy Know where your food has come fromthrough knowing those who produced it for you,from farmer to forager, rancher or fisherto earthworms building a deeper, richer soil,to the heirloom vegetable, the nitrogen-fixing legume,the pollinator, the heritage breed of livestock,& the sourdough culture rising in your flour.Know where your food has come fromby the very way it tastes:its freshness telling youhow far it may have traveled,the hint of mint in the cheesesuggesting what the goat has eaten,the terroir of the winereminding you of the limein the stone you stand upon,so that you can stand up for the landthat has offered it to you.Know where your food has come fromby ascertaining the health & wealthof those who picked & processed it,by the fertility of the soil that is leftin the patch where it once grew,by the traces of pesticidesfound in the birds & the bees there.Know whether the bays & shoalswhere your shrimp & fish once swamwere left richer or poorer than beforeyou & your kin ate from them.Know where your food comes fromby the richness of stories told around the tablerecalling all that was harvested nearbyduring the years that came before you,when your predecessors & ancestors,roamed the same woods & neighborhoodswhere you & yours now roam.Know them by the songs sung to praise them,by the handmade tools kept to harvest them,by the rites & feasts held to celebrate them,by the laughter let loose to show them our affection.Know where your foods come fromby the patience displayed while putting them up ,while peeling, skinning, coring or gutting them,while pit-roasting, poaching or fermenting them,while canning, salting or smoking them,while arranging them on a plate for our eyes to behold.Know where your food comes fromby the slow savoring of each and every morsel,by letting their fragrances lodge in your memoryreminding you of just exactly where you were the very daythat you became blessed by each of their distinctive flavors.When you know where your food comes fromyou can give something back to those lands & waters,that rural culture, that migrant harvester,curer, smoker, poacher, roaster or vinyer.You can give something back to that soil,something fecund & fleeting like compostor something lasting & legal like protection.We, as humans, have not been givenroots as obvious as those of plants.The surest way we have to lodge ourselveswithin this blessed earth is by knowingwhere our food comes from. — Gary Paul Nabhan